Up and Up

Heading up through the country from Bangkok, I felt my spirits rising steadily. First stop was Ayuttuyah, where I explored the ruins of the ancient capital by bike. Wandering first through crumbling ruins, then stepping into practicing temples, I was confronted with the historical immediacy of the country. Many of the temples had been destroyed in invasions by the Burmese. Their desecrated rubble was not removed, but left as a reminder.

Exploring other enormous temples found in between these structural skeletons, I would look up to see a massive elephant drift by, adorned with a driver and a set of tourists. While the overly touristy ride was not something I envied, I was in awe of the massive creature performing the leg-work so to speak. As a small tourbus drove by, the elephant stepped into the road, blocking the bus. Then as the tourist onlookers snapped photos from their blocked vehicle, the elephant reached its snout into the bus and collected any tips people put up. Trained to perfection. I was amused.

The following day, I hopped on a bus North to Sukhothai, another former capital of Thailand. Arriving late, I took my time, delaying any adventuring for the next day, opting instead to watch The Fugitive on TV before heading our for some dinner.

Borrowing a bike from my hotel, I took off down the dimly lit 2km road to the night market and food stands. Every few hundred feet or so a florescent street light buzzed dimly, illuminating a puddle of light with a canine centerpiece. It seems this continent is filled with stray dogs. While under the burden of the daytime sun, the four-legged folk seem to lay about in constant lethargy, their only display of life the occasional fly-swatting ear twitch.

But by night, like their forest bound brethren, they coalesce into packs, eager to roam and terrorize any sentient being they deem lower on the ladder of ferocity.

Approaching the first dog, it hopped to its feet, squared up to my approaching bike, and started to growl. Not slowing down, I swerved around it as it began to bark and howl wildly, initiating the gauntlet. As it tried to bite at my now piston-paced legs, I noticed new foes spilling into the street ahead. Not slowing down I was now surrounded by 5 or 6 dogs, all in hot pursuit of their inadvertent opposition.

Kicking my feet out at the monsters, they backed just out of range before chasing in closer again. The cycle repeated itself, the pack growing larger.

Only as I finally neared the illuminated busy street and bridge that lead to the night market, did the pack begin to slow to a trot, then stop, and disperse back into the shadows.

Adrenaline pumping in full, I had a large beer with dinner, then another few before taking on the same adventure before bed.

The following night, while making the same evening migration with a German friend I had made, we stocked up the baskets on the bikes with fistfuls of rocks. Armed with projectiles, we prepared for battle at the sight of the first shadow. This time, the dogs lay in quiet. One started to approach, but a quick rock tossed on the ground in front of it sent it scurrying. It reminded me of the opening sequences of 2001: A Space Odyssey. With tools and weapons one beast rises above another. Dog eat dog, dog eat tourist, tourist scare dog with rock. Rock and roll. Roll to town for spring roll, which rocked.

The day exploring old Sukhothai was beautiful. Renting a bike for 30baht ($1), I road throughout the moated city, and beyond into the hills overlooking it. Wats, chedis, temples adorned with massive Buddha statues, congresses of cows, and the steady hum of my bike tires on the gravel filled the day. A stop for an excellent lunch also provided a look at some of the local fauna/food. I was offered the delicacies of eel, scorpion and turtle for lunch, before settling on a more conservative Pad Thai.

Here are a few pics from the various temples and around town.

The following day I was up early and it was on to Chiang Mai where I am now. I spent the bus ride getting to know Patricia, a retired Parisian widower who was traveling by herself. She told me of her wide travels, and of her grandchildren, and of her plans for the future. I told her of the Philippines and my girlfriend, and we discussed our reasons for exploring, and the benefits it brings. In a matter of hours, we were in Chiang Mai, and Patricia had re-instated in me the good of travel, change and meeting new people. Her many adventures and stories excited me with the possibilities of adventures to take on.

With all of the bruises from Bangkok wiped clean, I set about finding my college friend who had a floor for me to lay my head.